30th June 2011 W/P 755 South 23’ 56.086 East 031’ 09.023 Altitude 414mtrs
Paul and his wife Anita have invited us to stay with them near the Kruger National Park at a place called Phalaborwa. We had met Paul at several off road races throughout the year one of those very likeable guy’s indeed, with a big smile and a bigger heart.
We arrived after a days drive for us 435klms from the Swazi border Oshoek. …most people would normally take half our time….but not us.
Phalaborwa was a small town not unlike you would find in Queensland Australia its tropical setting huge green gardens and swaying palms.
Tropical it is the shady gardens and Palms and thick green foliage everywhere you can hear the plants growing.
Paul had a full house with family staying over and the front garden was beautifully maintained the lush green grass a perfect place for Victor to pop his tent. We had meet Paul at his workshop which fixes anything from q-bikes to huge mining machinery in town, Paul has an endless ability to repair, fabricate, invent, and improve anything mechanical. His enthusiasm to fix any problem for anybody was his passion, his endless ability learnt from all those broken down off road buggies and years of racing …fixing a problem ….which is not a problem for Paul.
The South African Hospitality was once again typified by Paul and Anita just fantastic something which we will expand later in our travel stories………Paul had an agenda which would have us stay another year every day was a plan and Paul was going to make sure we would not forget the genuine hospitality we had received in South Africa.
Paul is currently maintaining the number one championship off road racing buggy driven by the owner Cully Sullward and his son Clinton.
This is no mean feat, the pressure is on Paul, and keeping that driver combination (father son team) together free from mechanical failures is a pressure I do not want.
Paul and Culley and our next round the world BUGGY……..LOL….it would be great
We hope they do well and finish first in their class our fingers are crossed.
Cully was the genuine Afrikaans guy just like Bez Bezuidenhout in Cape Town self made men with a passion to burn when it came to racing off road cars. It was a pleasure to meet Cully and his brother and family at their huge rock crushing plant, what a credit to them taking on the challenges that business dished out everyday supplying the huge mining industry in Phalaborwa.
Cully thanks so much for fixing our radiator and taking care of us driving around your business and showing us the mine site, we will always have a place downunder if you ever have the time to visit one day.
Phalaborwa mine
Paul had us at the braai the South African pastime cooking meat to perfection and adding a few shooters called Springboks……not something I would recommend if you intend to stay upright Elayne has fallen in love with them.
Paul and Anita had arranged for us to visit The Kruger National Park and be taken around by Andrew and his two daughters who actually live in the Kruger National Park. Andrew was a special Park Supervisor whose knowledge was unsurpassed his two daughters adding to the wealth of knowledge.
Entrance to Kruger National Park Phalaborwa entrance.
THE KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
Andrew and his 2 daughters drove us in one of those iconic safari vehicles you see pounding across those awesome African landscapes, the warm afternoon breeze blowing through the high open sided Toyota in its Karki Green paintwork spotting lilac breasted Rollers and Snake eagles , White back Vultures, African Hoopoe, and those big 5 most visitors talk about.
Andrew drives along a small track and stops the Toyota, at a small dried out river bed.
This is where we get out and really get to understand the Kruger….
Out comes a large rifle from its protective casing as Andrew briefs us on how to walk, spot, and listen and generally keep your eyes peeled…..YIKES….this all begins to sound serious…..and it is.
People get eaten we are on the menu when we step out from our vehicle we change the animals perspective when we step away from the outline of the vehicle….we become small and interesting……GREAT
Look one of Andrews daughters spots some Rhino dung……..picks it up and inspects it with a passion trying to find out how long had it been around, how old is the beast, what species is it, so on and on she goes I could not believe how much information you could derive from inspecting you know what????…..Yes it’s a white Rhino because the dung contains grass and the Black Rhino eats leaves!!!!!!……hopefully you can check out the video clip listening to these 2 young girls talking about all aspects of dung is fascinating to say the least.
Sorry Guy’s I just could not hold on anymore…….any toilet paper Elayne????
The droppings carried on Andrews young girls picking up every bit of dung and dissecting it to see what the defecator had just eaten …Black Rhino, Elephant, bucks of every type, they knew the lot it was so interesting to walk with such a wealth of expertise. Every bird which flew past was quickly explained to us Elayne was enjoying my silence……as I was totally out of my depth.
What I like the most was those African trees and even those where explained in depth……GREAT STUFF.
Thanks so much for your time Andrew and your passionate daughters a Kruger experience we will not forget.
Paul had arranged us to have a special night along the Olifants River staying at the Olifants Safari Resort, a beautiful lodge indeed….. Way Point for the Olifants Safari Resort S 24’ 04.331 E 031’ 07.829 altitude 309 mts.
This beautiful lodge set along edge of the river looking out across the Olifants had its own double storey river boat to see the game close at hand along the water’s edge.
What a wonderful surprise we had when Paul explained the owner had invited us to stay the following night at the lodge………….and enjoy an evening river cruise along the Olifants river spotting Hippo’s and tons more game…..we could not wait . The evening cruise was great so many animals relaxing in the Orange sunset the rivers wonderful reflections the flickering Braai fire will be lasting memories indeed. Sleeping in our luxury accommodation listing to those snorting Hippos and nearby Lions roaring away will be hard to beat.
Photo Game viewing ferry along the Olifants river.
Oliphants River
Paul and Anita’s hospitality did not stop there Paul had also arranged for Elayne and I to fly in an Ultra-light along the Olifants river skirting the Kruger National Park what a treat again testifying to that wonderful South African Hospitality.
It was a great stay with Paul and Anita really looking after us …we hope we can look after them if they decide to visit Australia in the near future.
It was going to be a challenge to get Victor into the most recognized National Park in the world
They do not allow motorbikes and Victor with his plastic windows will be a challenge indeed.
We buy our tickets and plan to spend two nights in the Park firstly at Shingwedzi……..Paul has booked in the main office
As there was no places available to us when we tried to book the day before at the same office due to school holidays coinciding with our visit, Paul has his connections and this time no problems whatsoever all booked in and map in hand Paul takes us to the Phalaborwa main entrance.
Tricky it was the Main gate officials do not want to let us through….YIKES….no windows they explain…….No doors either……I try and clam their genuine questions by climbing out of Victor and rolling down our plastic windows cocooning Elayne inside..
This is a real problem for us as we need to cross at the top of the Kruger into Mozambique at Pafuri if we cannot enter the Park we will need to back track through Swaziland and onto Maputo!!!!
They are not convinced the plastic windows will stop a charging Rhino and I am sure they are correct….but when I suggest they fire there rifle at the very, very, very, special Australian plastic windows while Elayne is still sitting in Victor….. they shook their heads in amazement ,totally impressed how strong this new Plastic from Australia actually was Yes I exclaim bullishly re-emphasising how technically superior the plastic is in Australia …….It got us through they were pretty impressed with Victors special plastic windows and Elayne willingness to sit in the car while they fired their rifle at the window ….
I climb back into Victor feeling triumphant we were on our way….what were they asking Elayne asks?…….nothing much……I reply….shrugging my shoulders ….why were you making out you had a gun in your hands, pointing the invisible gun towards me in the car and it looked as if you were asking them to point their large Elephant rifle at me as well!!!!……NO, NO,No nothing like that I replied…..just telling them about our plastic windows……This was getting even more dangerous than the large elephant rifle………I thought…..WHAT did you tell them about our plastic windows !! Elayne is now onto my antics…….nothing really I reply gingerly….just that they were bullet proof……BULLET PROOF……Elayne explodes ………….Bullet proof….!!!!!!!
A bit of a bluff … I smugly reply ……but it worked and we are through into the Park trying desperately to put a glossy spin on to the topic…..phew not bad I quickly reply…. to Elayne that was close…..TOO CLOSE……Elayne replies in a very aggravated voice……you suggested to them to fire that elephant rifle into our plastic windows….”WHILE I WAS SITTING IN THE CAR”………well I was not going to try it myself chuckling as I replied…….I can soon wipe that smile off your face Mr Christopher Clash …Elayne furiously exclaims….
It’s nice to know how much you love and value my company Elayne replied…so re assuring heading off into deep dark Africa…..I will not forget that in a hurry.
I apologised profusely but Elayne was not amused…..I returned to my BILTONG.
Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn once again, reminiscing on the times we have crossed this latitude before stopping now our very smart looking Victor at a rock line crossing the road thinking back on the times in Paraguay, Brazil and now the Kruger National Park South Africa.
The tropic of Capricorn South 23’ 26.18.
My favourite Zebras like Italian designer furniture…
…they never blend into the background!
THE SOUTH AFRICAN CAMPER……
It is clear to us that most South Africans are well organized campers we have not seen vehicles like it, their trailers which most are towing are equally impressive. Thousands and thousands of dollars are spent in what we think are the best equipped customized camping 4×4 we have ever seen.
The list of equipment these vehicles carry is impressive indeed the combinations of roof top tents awnings and cooking equipment, fashion colour co-ordinated chairs and matching tables, complete safari wardrobes , with camera lenses something even the Hubble telescope needs ….the list is truly endless…..
Potjie ( cast iron pots with 3 small legs to sit in the coals) pots several sizes from 20kgs down to 3kgs of solid cast iron, several Braaing double handed closing meat grills which you can turn over without your Worste ( Sausage ) and Game falling into the fire ….PLUS the wonderful Namaqualand hard wood all carried on board, PLUS 2 x freezer fridges some 60lt capacity and bigger!!!
One trailer we were invited over to inspect , which was being towed by the most kitted out new Toyota200 series I had ever seen……. had a complete bar and several optics with ice cube dispenser….which was pulled out from a completely dust free off road .
My eyes immediately surveyed the of range Brandy labels which were on offer, not forgetting a wine rack loaded with 24 beautiful South African Reds and whites….
The list is endless, but pull up alongside a South African party (as most travel in convoy) and you are immediately offered perfectly coked game meat , wine ,beer , biltong , worste, mealie meal ( Pap) and copious amounts of Brandy…..and endless interesting conversation.
The South African off roader gear is unbelievable !!!!, I have seen more ARB gear hanging off 4×4’s than I have ever seen in Australia, such is the passion for exploring South Africa and beyond, this Continent offering a huge amount of exploring fun indeed.
Their camping gear ….!!!! Awnings, trailers, roof tents combinations they are so comprehensive so large you will need town planning and building permits to erect them in Australia.
We always look embarrassing.
Victor was also inspected by most South Africans we met…..following many O oooo’ssss and Arrrrrh’s….. as the South African Ladies look on in interest and asked Elayne …where is your trailer have you left it behind with all your cloth’s and equipment …..Mmmmh ….and you would have shipped your car to South Africa from Australia….Mmmh I can hear Elayne once again….but all was good fun at the Shingwedzi camp in the Kruger National Park.
The cost is enormous we cannot afford to stay another night as planned …this is a repeating theme through Africa the cost to camp in all these wonderful parks and drive a foreign registered vehicle is horrendous (for us at least)….so expensive are the fees we feel upset we are unable to see these world renowned Game parks.
But 3,000,000 visitors a year the Kruger has no shortage of willing paying tourist.
The beautiful 4×4’s and trailers are an endless trail meandering through the Kruger Park, everybody is polite even the wildlife pose for their photo’s. I am not sure what the wildlife think looking at us driving around all stopping and point huge lenses at them,…..better than GUNS …Elayne exclaims and I have to agree with that….. but they have trained us very well.
Crooks Corner
A must place to see with wildlife every 50mtrs we drive, loads of Hippos bathing alongside one another, the Limpopo’s green flowing waters wash the sandy banks along the 3 borders ,Zimbabwe Mozambique, and South Africa .
Its warm around 25c the shade of the large trees along the Rivers edge is inviting us to stay longer , as we watch small velvet monkeys playing in their canopies, its late morning and we decide to head towards the Mozambique border at Pafuri . Our plan then is to then head S/E hoping to cross the Limpopo River at Mapai cutting along the Limpopo through, The Great Limpopo Transfrontier Reserve
Ok you can go……….
